We set sail from Samoa yesterday afternoon heading for Tonga, which is about 350 miles south-east. Initially we were sailing with part of the main square rig, itself composed of four sails, the course, lower and middle topsall and t'gallant. Yesterday afternoon we were sailing with the topsalls, downwind on a southerly heading out of Samoa - look at how nautical I have become after a mere 24 hours!! Truth be told, I need to go and consult the ship's handbook for the names of the other sails we later unfurled - I use 'we' in the loosest possible sense as I was sleeping at the time...
Ok, so now in possession of the handbook, I can confidently say that sails numbers 8, 9 and 14 were used, in other words (deep breath): fore topmast staysail, course sail and main staysail! Hurrah. However, we have been 'motor sailing' (a somewhat euphemistic term) because the East-by-South-East wind does not allow direct and easy passage to Tonga. Instead, we're heading as far south as possible, before unfurling the majority of the sails and cutting back westwards. This should happen on my next watch, around 21h00 this evening, involving lots of rope pulling no doubt!!
So, yes the watches - what a fantastic experience! The crew is divided into three watches, with mine being the 8-12, meaning a shift in the early morning and the other in the evening. My first was yesterday evening then, shortly after a beef stroganoff which proved to be a short-lived gastronomic experience for some, with the rapidly deteriorating seas: we hit a force 4-5 which, while not strong, was enough to send many heaving to the side-rail. I am pleased to say I have not succumbed so far, but I am sure it is only a question of time.
So, the watch - it was incredible, at night; but light with the moon, stars and occasional squalls bringing the odd shower! Duties are keeping watch, doing the safety rounds every hour and taking a go at the helm. This was fantastic; I got my first go towards the end of the watch and it was an amazing experience to be ‘sailing’ the ship, valiantly trying to keep the 160 degrees set by the Captain!! And trying not to make the course to windy given the green nature of many of the crew. After a while you get used to the way the ship responds to your changes at the helm and I was able to maintain a pretty decent course. It really felt quite magical, sailing along in the dark and seeing the boat crash up and down through the dark seas. Brilliant.
More of the same this morning, but this time with some more hourly safety checks, including the engine room where you try not to fall on the hot equipment while taking oil, fuel and air readings. You also have to confirm ship’s course, wind speed and general conditions for the ship’s log. I keep wanting to do my version of the shipping forecast from Radio 4 but this one appears to be the slimmed down version!
Now the time is 18h15: I have had to write this in stages as earlier on I got feeling a bit dodgy, but now I have the perfect position for blog updates, lying on my bunk, rocking back and forth in the force 5!
Dinner in an hour and then back on watch. A ship is an impressive example of routine and team working - essential elements when to a degree we are alone with the elements. The professional crew includes two fellow Mancunians, Darren, the Capitan and Gareth, the Second Mate. The Capitan is a Red and also leads my watch so my times at the helm have included much football talk ahead of the new season, which I note has already heralded another trophy at Old Trafford. All good stuff.
The voyage crew, i.e. the part I belong to, has some interesting characters, including one woman who is doing the whole six months voyage from New Zealand and an Irish woman working in the Perm Rep to the EU in Brussels - how strange to come all this way and meet someone working just down the street!
Wish me bon appetit and all success in holding on to it!
Rob
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